It’s a late Saturday afternoon and we start our walk from the noisy streets of modern Chiang Mai, and let low key blue street signs guide us into another world of ancient back streets and alleys, or soi's as they are referred to in Thai. After just a few minutes’ walk we are surrounded by everyday village life, right in the centre of this big bustling city. Here is a sense of relaxed calmness that contrasts the acoustic junk and bustling traffic outside. The sound image of the back alleys contains sugary sweet Thai Pop music from the sound systems of outdated transistors.  We also hear the soft mumbling and monotone voices of the monks from Buddhist temples. Gentle vibrations from the cicadas cuts through the tropical heat and gently we sway along in its rhythm.The temperature is pleasant at this time of the day though, and feels like a mild summer’s day somewhere back home. Suddenly the cicadas become silent, but soon after they start over like an old saw mill. This time the sound is chilling and cuts right through the air, and then it’s all silent again. Swallows are tightly gathered in some of the trees. From an old Indian trumpet tree, bats are getting ready for their evening flight.

The first main attraction we see is the famous temple of Wat Phra Singh. Since Chiang Mai once was the capital of a northern Thai state, the old city nucleus still remains. Its square shaped form is surrounded by water channels. The plentiful temples once built as monuments for eternity, are the only true remains of the ancient kingdom of Lanna. However, the atmosphere in the old town still contains a genuine laid back feeling. The temples serves us as revealing guide posts giving gentle directions to recover the true charm that lies hidden in the narrow soi´s.  The contrasts in the area are both fascinating and somewhat scaring. In the alleys you find shacks constructed from corrugated steel, mixed with huge old traditional teak houses behind golden colored fences.

Dirty white concrete townhouses are everywhere. Next to these houses stand temples with shiny glass mosaics and softly smiling Buddha images. There are two symbols that are recurring during our walk; the clay pots outside the entrance of the houses, and the roof decorations in the shape of a V. Those pots are full of water, a proof of hospitality. A lost traveler never lacked water in the old days. The V on the roof is there to scare of ghosts. In northern Thailand these auspicious signs are known as kalaes. The electric wires are in a complete mess, and below them there is the  constant threat of tropical trees growing strait in to them. Why Thai people plant tropical trees this way remains a mystery? But it seems as everything is replaceable in this tropical world. Concrete houses can easily be destroyed and replaced by new ones. It takes just a short while for these kinds of houses to fade and crack. Luckily, there are still Thai traditional houses contrasting these monstrous constructions. Old teak houses on stilts still hold out, even though the environment is in a constant change. Teak is cooler than concrete and the stilt houses had practical functions to keep insects, snakes and lizards out. Once upon a time Thai houses mostly stood along the country’s rivers. Building on stilts protected their owners against flooding.

We decide to take a break at a cafe. We enjoy fresh roasted Arabica beans harvested from the mountains surrounding Chiang Mai. Then we proceed into another soi. In that alley, two old men are drinking what looks like Thai rum. A lady helps them to mix their cocktail. She mix soda, big chunks of ice and just a touch of  what is actual rum but in Thailand all strong liquor is called whisky. Suddenly we notice two ladies gossiping about something. Maybe they chat about us?

Some monk novices are on their way home from the local Internet cafe. We can hear when their flip flop sandals scratch the small stones covering the entrance to their temple. One by one the novices disappear through the gate. An old abbot yells at them.  He flies up from his chair and chases them in to their monk cells. Left in the temple garden is only his radio. Hopelessly outdated and with a crackling noise the radio stands there. Left alone in the garden. We smile while we watch the radio. Those radios are everywhere in Thailand.  It’s seems like a somewhat typical Thai symbol. From a kitchen nearby a scent of fried of basil and chili fills the air. We almost sneeze. Someone is frying pad ka pao, a hot and spicy Thai dish. We catch a glimpse of the chef, a smiling lady behind a curtain of fire that arises from her wok pan. She throws the ingredients up in the air with great skill. A repairman stays open late. He looks up at us, and then goes on with his work  fixing a TV with a screen that is far from flat. Three kids with a big ladder pass us on ONE motorbike(!). The dogs bark and then silence.

On our right, we spot a wonderful boutique hotel. Baan Klang Wiang at Ratchamangka soi 6. The owner explains it has only ten rooms. Here they cherish the old handicraft traditions of Lanna and every room has a view over a garden. ”Home is not only where you live, but where they understand you” it says in their brochure. After admiring the hotel we leave and arrive just a few minutes later at the ancient temple of Wat Chedi Luang. An truly impressive ruin of the temple tower can be seen from many places in the old town. An earthquake in the 16th century destroyed parts of the chedi. The temple used to be a center for theological discussions and meetings. The blood orange sun is about to set. Suddenly the tropical darkness takes over, eating the chedi bit by bit.Feeling tired near the end of our walk we catch a new hotel sign; ”Welcome to true serenity" it says. At the Bodhi Serene Hotel roof terrace we round off our relaxing Soi stroll with a mighty cocktail while we watch the houses being lit up for the night.

© Text by Per Sundberg and Jan Friman
© Photo Jan Friman