Sights and attractions around Chiang Mai

Food of the Southern Silk Road - The history of khao soi
When you come to Chiang Mai. Forget all about chicken with cashew nuts, beef in oyster sauce and sweet and sour pork. Try Khao Soi instead, one of the dishes really associated with northern Thailand. But what is today a typical northern thai dish has ,according to some ,a shanburmese name and roots back to southern China (in chinese the dish is called something like "ming") and even the Turkish-Muslim cuisine. 

The history of this popular lunch dish actually gives testify about the entire region's ethnic diversity. It tells about exciting cultural meetings, where the trade between different areas created a whole new food culture in the region. Khao Soi appears to have been introduced to Thailand by chinese haw muslims from Yunnan. The haw, in their turn, are originally a turkish people from Central Asia, that in the 13th century worked for the great Khublai Khan to guard the Yunnan region, while he was planning his invasion of the Pagan Empire in Burma.

In return for their effort, they were offered to take chinese wifes and several generations later, they have adopted a more chinese appearance. 

Haw people became over time the southern Silk Road merchants. Trade between Yunnan, Thailand, Burma and Laos relied on on them, and while they were trading they spread their food culture as well, and when it met tai/shan culture. The splendid taste of modern khao soi was the result. One addition from tai culture is said to be the coconut milk. Khao soi later spread throughout Chiang Mai, since this was the city where the trade caravans finished. Later on when more and more haw chinese came to work on the railway between Chiang Mai and Bangkok, the haw kitchen gained even more influence (see Early travelers of Chiang Mai).

Khao Soi is in many ways the ultimate composition of food. It consists of coconut milk, fresh egg noodles, and on top, crispy yellow egg noodles, a kind of chilli sauce, lime, and then topping with pickles, shallots and dried chilli if you so desire. In most cases it is based on chicken. It can also be made as a vegetarian dish if you wish. 

The fun is to see when foreigners are served a bowl of khao soi the first time. Chopsticks and a spoon are provided!

- Eating soup with chopsticks - the puzzled tourist exclaims!? 

So then, Khao Soi isn´t really a soup, or to put it more correct; it is more than just soup!

Khao Soi is a  curry noodle soup. The dish is best described that way. Not as simple as soup and more than noodles - the ultimate blend of curry, soup and noodles. I mean why have only soup when you can have curry and why eat only curry when you can add noodles. Just Brilliant! A well-cooked Khao Soi really satisfies the needs of your taste buds, strong, mild, slightly sweet, sour ,and slight touch of bitternes, which comes from the pickled vegetables.

Please join us for Khao Soi at The Northern Rose. We will be presenting some of Chiang Mais Khao Soi restaurants in our upcoming posts.

You can also find other storys related to khao soi on the TNR Reference Archives [@Twine_official]

^PS

Introducing The Authors Uncut on The Northern Rose Developers Blog

After the merit making for 10.000 Buddhist monks, the street of Nimmanhemin in Chiang Mai has been hosting two larger events.  The first one was NAP (Nimman Street Art and Promenade จัดงานที่นิมมานเหมิ) which took place between 5-9^th December on soi 1- the soi of design and contemporary art. Just as the name say, this was an opportunity for designers and artists to show their work. Closing the street for traffic turned soi 1 in to a "pedestrian paradise". 

Then to be in phase with the climate conference in Copenhagen, Think Green (10-13^th December) –  an initiative to promote the future of environmental friendly Lanna architecture, took place opposite Amari hotel. It seems that by focusing on the traditional Lanna type of house much can be won in terms of green housing. The event also put some focus on rediscovering bamboo- the plant of life.

However, Nimmanhemin is primarily a place to go people watching. December is the time when Thai people go north, it seems hugely important for some Bangkokians to show up at trendy places and coffeeshops (such as Wavee coffee) in winter clothes at this time of the year.

Text: ^PS & Photo: ^JF

Saturday 28th November, at 6.09 in the morning, busload after busload with saffron colored monks are entering Nimmanhemin Rd in Chiang Mai.
 
According to the organisers 10.000 monks from different parts of Thailand, Burma and Laos are participating in this form of meritmaking, or Thambon. This is the term for merit making and function like a kind of religious bridge between the layman and the monks, who are the reservoirs of merit that the laymen morally can benefit from. Except from the benefit of meritmaking itself, money and food donations are also given for various benefitting purposes.

I have always been impressed by the large number of monks walking through Mae Hong Son or Luang Prabang in Laos at dawn.
This, event was however of an entirely different magnitude. The sidewalk full of people waiting to pay respect to the monks, many of them dressed in white holding the buddhist symbol of a lotus between their hands. The monks in their turn are taking pictures themselves and the event. They seem to be enjoying themselves while preparing their walk through Nimmanhemin.
 
This amazing event is a kick off for a lot of happenings that will take place in Nimmanhemin area and other areas in December.
December is the month when Nimmanhemin really comes alive with jazz afternoons and “walking streets”. There is also the Royal flower show in Ratchapreuk Gardens starting on the 1:st of December running all through the 10:th of December.

Thenorthernrose.asia will of course make an effort to envision these illustrious events. We warmly welcome you to join us in some of the most colorful events in Chiang mai.

Text and Photo: ^PS

   

Click here to download:

Fish_Spa_Chiang_Mai_A_toe_biti.zip (320 KB)

Fish facts from Wikipedia

The Spa tradition is strong and vibrant in the Chiang Mai region. A recent addition to the Lanna cultural heritage is a new phenomenon "Fish Spa". I've heard of "Dog Spa's" and "Car Spa" but Fish? I didn't realize fish are in need of Spa treatment. Aren't they swimming around in a constant spa environment?

To my surprise I found that the Turkish Garra Rufa fishes provided a much needed service to tired and worn out feet belonging to the human species.

The fish eat partly from our dead skin, but to be quite honest it’s not enough. They get fed after closing time as well. If they are well taken care of these small toe suckers can live up to three years. This micro massage is a tingly experience, when the fish eat your toes and suck your heels. This is also just the beginning; coming soon is the big tank, 180 centimeter fish tank for the full micro body massage. I wonder how the more noble parts of the body will be handled? Dr Fish is certainly diligent and has been told to be able to relieve symptoms of psoriasis and eczema.

I realized that the Fish Spa experience provide another important function, namely the old Swedish tradition "The liars bench". Here you got 30 minutes off to talk about all things important in the realm of heaven and earth.

Tip for Small Business Entrepreneurs:

Take your business colleague or customer along to listen to your new innovative ideas and business suggestions. They will have the time to think it over and reflect in a relaxed environment which it will make them more likely to approve of your genius ideas. How can anyone say no, while the fish is biting your toe?

From the river bassins of Turkey to local spas there, these fishes has made succes in Japans Hakone area, further to Hainan in China and now even Chiang Mai / Thailand.

The Fish Spa can be found outside Rim Ping supermarket close to Central Airport Plaza and also one at the night bazaar (Chang Klan Rd).

^JF

In 1904 the great photographer and traveler J. Antonia made the journey to Chiang Mai. J. Antonia wrote one of the first guidebooks about Siam. This is how he describes the journey from Bangkok to Chiang Mai in the pre-railway times. 

“Travel in the north of Siam depends greatly upon the season of the year, the amount of water in the rivers etc. There are various places of interest but the difficulties in reaching them are such as to practically preclude their being visited by the ordinary traveler or tourist unless business draws him thither“.  

“When it is explained that a trip to Chiengmai takes as a journey to Europe, and costs even more, it will readily be seen that something more than a desire to view the jungle is necessary to attract the average sight-seer. Fevers, too, are not unknown; there are perils to be encountered in the swirling rapids of the river, which number about 30, and in some places even there are impassable, and tedious portages have to be made. Boat travel to the far north may cost a single individual anything from 15 to 20 ticals per day, whilst a journey on elephant will come to as much or more”.

The railway to Chiang Mai was completed in 1917.

^PS